Lightweight partition walls which are not loadbearing can be removed without consulting the authorities for approval, and without the need to add temporary supports. You must, however, be certain that the wall is in fact not structural, as some partitions do offer partial support.

Remove the skirting boards from both sides of the wall, plus any picture-rail mouldings: it is a good idea to save these for possible reuse or repairs in the future. If any electrical switches or socket outlets are attached to the wall, they must be disconnected and the wiring rerouted before work begins.

Removing the plasterwork

Use a claw hammer or wrecking bar to hack off the plaster and laths or plasterboard covering the wall frame. Once the framework is stripped, remove the vertical studs. Bag up the debris and remove it.

Removing the framework

First knock away any nailed noggins.

Partition walls are sometimes made using lightweight concrete blocks. To remove the wall, start to cut away the individual units from the top with a bolster chisel and club hammer. Work from between the studs. If the studs are nailed to the head and sill, they can be knocked apart. If they are housed or mortised in place, saw through them (at an angle to prevent the saw jamming). If you make the cut close to the joint, you will be left with a handy length of reusable timber.

Prise off the head and sill members from the ceiling joists and floor. If the end studs are fixed to the walls, prise them away with a wrecking bar.

Finishing off

Replaster the gap left in the ceiling and walls; you may need to fit a narrow strip of plasterboard. Fit floorboarding to close the gap in the floor if the boards are not continuous.

Chop off an area of plaster first so that you can locate the joints between blocks, then drive your chisel into these to lever them out.

When you remove a dividing wall that penetrates the floor, you are left with a gap between the floors on each side. The floorboards may run parallel with, or at right angles to, the line of the wall. Filling the gap with new floorboards is straightforward.

When the boards are parallel with the wall the supporting joists may rest on a wall plate built into the lower wall. Cut a board matching the thickness of the floorboards to fill the gap. Nail the board to the joist.

When the boards are at right angles to the gap, the ends will be supported on joists running parallel with the wall and about 50mm (2in) from it.

Cut the ends of the board flush with the joists. Nail 50 x 25mm (2 x lin) sawn softwood battens to the sides of the joists, level with the underside of the boards. Cut short lengths of matching floorboards to bridge the gap and nail them to the batten.