Floorboarding is produced in lengths that are intended to run from wall to wall. In practice this rarely happens because odd, shorter lengths are often laid to save on materials. When lifting floorboards, start with these shorter pieces if possible. In many older homes one or two boards will probably have been lifted already for access to services.

Tap the blade of a bolster into the gap between the boards close to the cut end (1). Lever up the edge of the board, but try not to crush the one next to it. Fit the bolster into the gap at the other side of the board and repeat the procedure.

Ease the end of the board up in this way, then work the claw of a hammer under it until there is room to slip a cold chisel under the board (2). Lift the next pair of nails, proceeding in the same fashion along the board until it is free.

The butted ends of floorboards normally —eet over a joist (1). A board that has :een cut flush with the side of a joist must be supported from below when it is replaced (2).

Cut a piece of 50 x 50mm (2 x 2in) softwood and screw it to the side of the joist, flush with the top edge. Screw the end of the floorboard to the support.

Floorboards are nailed in place before the skirting boards are fixed, so the ends of a continuous board are trapped under them. You will have to cut the board in half before you can lift it.

Prise up the centre of the floorboard with a bolster until you can slip a cold chisel under it to keep it bowed. Remove the nails and, with a tenon saw, cut through the board (1) over the centre of the joist. You can then lift the two halves of the board.

A board that is too stiff to be bowed upwards, or is tongued and grooved, will have to be sawn in situ. This means cutting it flush with the side of the joist instead of over its centre.

To release the end of a floorboard that is trapped under the skirting, lift the board until it is almost vertical, then pull it straight out of the gap between the skirting and the joist W.

A floorboard that runs beneath a partition wall must be cut close to the skirting before you can raise it (2). Drill an access hole so that you can insert the blade of a padsaw.

Alternatively, you can hire a special saw (3) that can be used for cutting floorboards. It has a curved cutting edge that allows you to saw through a board without lifting it completely.

the blade of a padsaw (2) vertically into the gaps on both sides of the board (the joints of tongue-and-grooved boards will also have to be cut beforehand). Mark both edges of the board where the blade stops, and draw a line between these points representing the side of the joist. Make an access slot for the padsaw blade by drilling three or four 3mm diameter holes close together near one end of the line marked across the surface.

Work the tip of the blade into the hole and start making the cut with short strokes. Gradually tilt the blade to a shallow angle to avoid cutting into any cables or pipes that may be hidden below. Lever up the board with a bolster chisel.

TONGUE-ANDGROOVE BOARDING

Check whether your floorboards are tongued and grooved by trying to push a knife into the gap between them.

To lift a tongue-and-groove board it is necessary first to cut through the tongue on each side of the board. Saw carefully along the line of the joint with a dovetail or tenon saw (1) held at a shallow angle. A straight wooden batten temporarily nailed along the edge of the floorboard may help you to keep the saw on a straight line.

With the tongue cut through, saw across the board and lift it as you would a plain square-edged one.

If the original flooring has been ’secret nailed’ (2), use lost-head nails (3) to fix the boards back in place and conceal the nail heads with a matching wood filler.

Floorboarding is produced in lengths that are intended to run from wall to wall. In practice this rarely happens because odd, shorter lengths are often laid to save on materials. When lifting floorboards, start with these shorter pieces if possible. In many older homes one or two boards will probably have been lifted already for access to services.

Tap the blade of a bolster into the gap between the boards close to the cut end (1). Lever up the edge of the board, but try not to crush the one next to it. Fit the bolster into the gap at the other side of the board and repeat the procedure.

Ease the end of the board up in this way, then work the claw of a hammer under it until there is room to slip a cold chisel under the board (2). Lift the next pair of nails, proceeding in the same fashion along the board until it is free.

The butted ends of floorboards normally —eet over a joist (1). A board that has :een cut flush with the side of a joist must be supported from below when it is replaced (2).

Cut a piece of 50 x 50mm (2 x 2in) softwood and screw it to the side of the joist, flush with the top edge. Screw the end of the floorboard to the support.

Floorboards are nailed in place before the skirting boards are fixed, so the ends of a continuous board are trapped under them. You will have to cut the board in half before you can lift it.

Prise up the centre of the floorboard with a bolster until you can slip a cold chisel under it to keep it bowed. Remove the nails and, with a tenon saw, cut through the board (1) over the centre of the joist. You can then lift the two halves of the board.

A board that is too stiff to be bowed upwards, or is tongued and grooved, will have to be sawn in situ. This means cutting it flush with the side of the joist instead of over its centre.

To release the end of a floorboard that is trapped under the skirting, lift the board until it is almost vertical, then pull it straight out of the gap between the skirting and the joist W.

A floorboard that runs beneath a partition wall must be cut close to the skirting before you can raise it (2). Drill an access hole so that you can insert the blade of a padsaw.

Alternatively, you can hire a special saw (3) that can be used for cutting floorboards. It has a curved cutting edge that allows you to saw through a board without lifting it completely.

the blade of a padsaw (2) vertically into the gaps on both sides of the board (the joints of tongue-and-grooved boards will also have to be cut beforehand). Mark both edges of the board where the blade stops, and draw a line between these points representing the side of the joist. Make an access slot for the padsaw blade by drilling three or four 3mm diameter holes close together near one end of the line marked across the surface.

Work the tip of the blade into the hole and start making the cut with short strokes. Gradually tilt the blade to a shallow angle to avoid cutting into any cables or pipes that may be hidden below. Lever up the board with a bolster chisel.

TONGUE-ANDGROOVE BOARDING

Check whether your floorboards are tongued and grooved by trying to push a knife into the gap between them.

To lift a tongue-and-groove board it is necessary first to cut through the tongue on each side of the board. Saw carefully along the line of the joint with a dovetail or tenon saw (1) held at a shallow angle. A straight wooden batten temporarily nailed along the edge of the floorboard may help you to keep the saw on a straight line.

With the tongue cut through, saw across the board and lift it as you would a plain square-edged one.

If the original flooring has been ’secret nailed’ (2), use lost-head nails (3) to fix the boards back in place and conceal the nail heads with a matching wood filler.