Unlike solid walls of brick or block, stud walls are mainly hollow, presenting problems when wall fixtures are to be hung. Wherever possible these should be fixed directly to the structural stud members for maximum support, but if the positions of fixtures are preplanned, extra studding, noggings or mounting boards can be incorporated before the wall lining is applied.

A wall-mounted hand basin will need a sound enough fixing to carry its own weight anj that of someone leaning on it when it is in use.

Buy the basin before building the wall — or work from the manufacturer’s literature, which usually specifies the distance between centres for fixing the brackets — and position two studs to take the fixing screws. Mark the centre lines of the studs on the floor before applying the wall lining so that you can eventually transfer the marks to the face of the lining. Measure the height from the floor for the basin brackets and fix them securely with wood screws.

If you plan wall-mounted taps above the basin make a plywood mounting board to fit between a pair of standard- spaced studs to carry both the basin and the taps. Use exterior-grade plywood at least 18mm (3/4in) thick. Plywood is tougher and more stable than softwood and chipboard does not hold screws well.

Screw 50 x 50mm (2 x 2in) battens to the inside faces of the studs, set back from their front edges by the thickness of the board. Cut the board to size with enough height to support basin and taps, then screw it to the battens to lie flush with the two studs.

Apply the lining to the side of the wall that will carry the basin, leaving the other side open for plumbing in the appliances. Drill clearance holes and fit the taps; fix the basin-support brackets, preferably with bolts.

To hide the plumbing within the wall, pass the waste downpipe through a hole drilled in the wall-sill member and run it under the floor. If the wastepipe must run sideways in the wall, notch the studs.

It is not always possible to fix to the studs because walls tend to be put up well before furnishings are considered. If there are no studs just where you want them, you will have to use cavity fixings instead. Choose a type that will adequately support the cabinet.

FITTING SERVICES IN STUD PARTITIONS

It is easy to plan and fit services in a stud-partition wall before lining it. To guard against future occupants drilling into service runs, set horizontal cables or pipes no more than 150mm (6in) above floor level.

Plumbing

Plan the runs of pipes by marking the faces of the vertical studs or the noggings that brace them. Remember that a wastepipe must have a slight fall. When you are satisfied with the layout cut notches in the timbers for the pipework .

Transfer the marked lines to the sides of the studs or noggings and drill holes for the pipes close to their front edges. Cut in to the holes to make notches. If cut at a slight angle they will hold the pipes while they are being fitted.

Notches cut for wastepipes must be reinforced to prevent them weakening the studs. Drill the holes in the centres of the studs, following the pipe run.

Before cutting in to the holes cut housings for 300mm (12in) lengths of 50 x 25mm (2 x1 in) softwood to bridge the notches. Make the notches, set the wastepipe in place, then screw the bridging pieces into their housings flush with the fronts of the studs.

Noggings need not be braced, but fit one under a pipe bend as a support.

Running electric cable

Drill 12 to 18mm (1/2 to 3/4in) holes at the centres of the studs for level runs of cable and in noggings for vertical runs. Fit extra noggings to carry mounting boxes for sockets and switches. For a flush-mounted fitting, inset the noggings to the depth of the box so that its front edge lies flush with the lining. Run the cable. With the lining in place, mark and cut an opening for the box and pull the cable through. If you have omitted a mounting board during construction, you can use dry-wall fixing flanges to hold the metal box to the lining.

Wall-mounted bookshelves have to carry a considerable weight and must be fixed securely, especially to stud partitions. Use a shelving system which has strong metal uprights into which adjustable brackets are slotted. The uprights spread the load across all the wall fixings. Screw into studs if you can, otherwise use suitable cavity fixings.

- When the studs are spaced at 400mm (1ft 4in) centres, fix the shelving uprights to alternate studs. For 600mm (2ft) spaced studs fix to each in turn.

As an alternative, fix individual shelves along their back edges with extruded-aluminium shelf-supports screwed horizontally across the studs.

Load-carrying fixtures with a small contact area can crush the plaster and strain the fixings. Mount coat hooks, for example, on a board to spread the load and screw the boards to studs.

Hang small pictures on picture hooks secured with steel pins, larger ones on a double-pin type, preferably fixed to a stud. Use mirror plates fixed to the frame to screw a large mirror or picture to the wall. Suspend heavy frames from stranded wire, not twine.