Plasterboard can be nailed directly on to the timber framework of a stud partition or on to wooden battens fixed to a masonry wall. It can also be bonded straight on to solid walls with plaster or an adhesive. The boards can be fitted horizontally if it is more economical to do so, but generally. they are placed vertically. All of the edges should be supported. When plasterboarding a ceiling and walls, cover the ceiling first.
Fixing to metal studs Some modern houses may have metal-stud partition walls. If you need to fix into these studs, use special self- tapping drywall screws.
Nailing to a stud partition Timber-framed partition walls may simply be plain room-dividers or they may include doorways. Start fitting boards from one corner when you are plasterboarding a plain wall; if the wall includes a doorway, work away from it towards the corners of the room.
Starting from a corner
Using a footlifter, try the first board in position. Mark and scribe the edge that meets the adjacent wall if this is necessary, then nail the board into position (see far right), securing it to all the frame members.
Fix the rest of the boards in place, working across the partition. Butt the edges of tapered-edge boards, but leave a gap of 3mm (Vain) between boards that are going to be coated with a board-finishing plaster.
If necessary, scribe the edge of the last board to fit the end corner before nailing it into place.
Cut a skirting board, mitring the joints at the corners or scribing the ends of the new board to the original. Fit the skirting board.
Starting from a doorway
Using the footlifter, hold a board flush with the door stud and mark the position of the underside of the door head on the edge of the board. Between this mark and the top edge of the board, cut out a 25mm (l in) wide strip. Reposition the board and fix it in place, nailing it to all the frame members .
Fix the rest of the boards in place, working towards the corner. Cut the edges of tapered-edge boards, but leave a 3mm (Nin) gap between boards that you intend to coat afterwards with a board-finishing plaster.
If necessary, scribe the last board to fit any irregularities in the corner before fixing it in place.
Cover the rest of the wall on the other side of the doorway in a similar way, starting by cutting a 25mm (1in) wide strip from the first board between its top edge and a mark indicating the lower side of the door head.
Cut a plasterboard panel to go above the doorway, butting into the cutouts in the boards on each side of the door. Sand away the ragged edges of paper before fitting the panel.
Clad the other side of the partition with plasterboard in the same way.
When all of the plasterboard is in place, fill and finish the joints. Cut and fit solid-wood door linings and cover the edges with an architrave moulding.
Cut and fit skirting boards, nailing through the plasterboard into alternate studs behind.
Use special galvanized plasterboard nails of lengths appropriate to the thickness of the plasterboard, as shown in the table below.
Space the nails 150mm (6in) apart and place them not less than 9mm (Min) from the paper-covered edge and 12mm (/2in) from the cut ends. Drive the nails in straight so that their heads sink just _below the surface without tearing through the paper lining.