RIGGING UP ADJUSTABLE PROPS

A serving hatch is a convenient opening in a wall, usually between a kitchen and dining area, through which you can pass food, drinks and equipment. If you are blocking off a doorway, or making a stud wall, it may be advantageous to allow for a hatch. Alternatively, you may want to make a hatchway in an existing wall.

To remove part of a loadbearing wall it is necessary to provide support for the wall above the opening. Hire adjustable steel props and scaffold boards to spread the load across the floor. Where the brickwork will remain below the ceiling level, you will also need ‘needles’ to spread the load. Needles must be of sawn timber at least 150 x 100mm (6 x 4in) in section and about 1.8m (6ft) long.

For a hatchway or door opening, one needle and two props will suffice: place the needle centrally over the opening about 150Min (6in) above the lintel position. For wider openings, or where a load is great, space two needles and four props no more than 900mm (3ft) apart across the width of the opening.

Chop a hole in the wall for each needle and slot them through. Support each end with a prop, which works like a car jack. Stand the props on scaffold boards no more than 600mm (2ft) from each side of the wall.

Ideally, the bottom of the opening should be an extension of the kitchen worktop or at least flush with a work surface: 900mm (3ft) is a comfortable working height and the standard height for kitchen worktops. For practicality — for passing through a tray and serving

You can make a hatchway in either a loadbearing or a solid non-loadbearing wall in much the same way: the main requirement with the former is temporary support for the masonry above and the load imposed on the wall. Mark the position for the hatch on the wall. Align the hole with the vertical and horizontal mortar courses between the bricks to save having to cut too many of the latter — hack off a square of plaster at the centre to locate the joints.

Drill through at the corners of the opening and mark out the shape and position of the hatch on the other side of the wall. Make the hole about 25mm (tin) oversize to allow for fitting a lining.

Cutting an opening in a stud-partition wall is simpler than making one in a solid wall, but if the wall bears some weight you will need to support the floor or ceiling above with props, using planks to spread the load.

Mark out, then cut away the plasterboard or lath-and-plaster covering from each side to expose the studs. For a hatch the same width as the distance between the studs (up to 550mm/lft 10in), just skew-nail a nogging between them at the top and bottom of the opening. If it is to be wider, make the opening span three studs. Cut away part of the middle stud at the height you want the hatch, allowing for a horizontal frame member at top and bottom. Make the framing from studding timber and cut to fit between the two studs on each side of the cut one. Fit and check for level.

Line the hatch opening with 25mm (lin) thick planed softwood joined at the corners with butt joints or bare-faced tongue-and-groove joints for a neater result. The frame can either finish flush with the plaster wall surface and be covered with an architrave, or project beyond the plaster to form a lip or shelf.

The sides of the opening in a masonry wall are likely to be rough — it is not easy to chop a clean line. Make dishes, for instance — it should not be narrower than 740mm (2ft 6in).

Hatches should be fitted with some means of closing the opening for privacy, for preventing cooking smells from drifting and, in some cases, so that they act as a fire-check.

Set up adjustable props and needles if you are working on a loadbearing wall , then chop a slot for the lintel with a club hammer and bolster chisel on a brick wall this will probably be a single course of bricks deep; on a block wall, remove a whole course of blocks and fill the gap with bricks. Set the lintel in mortar trowelled on to the bearings. Use a spirit level to check that the lintel is perfectly horizontal — pack under it with pieces of slate if necessary. Replace any bricks above the lintel that have dropped. Leave for 24 hours to set, then remove the props and needles and hack away the masonry below.

and fit the frame, then pack out the gap between masonry and lining with offcuts of wood. The frame must be truly square within the opening — check this with a spirit level before proceeding. Screw the frame to the masonry using fixing plugs, fitted when the frame is positioned. Make good with mortar all round it. Rake back the surface of the mortar and, when it has set, finish flush with plaster.