Public Designs » Home and Garden http://www.publicdesigns.com Tue, 23 Feb 2010 15:46:25 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=abc en hourly 1 Bathroom Design http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/bathroom-design/ http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/bathroom-design/#comments Tue, 23 Feb 2010 15:28:18 +0000 admin http://www.publicdesigns.com/?p=515 Bathrooms are an essential part of any home. When considering what type of bathroom suites you require, you have to look at the style of your house, and more importantly, the room you have to fill.

There are lots of bathroom websites and showrooms out there so shopping around is always a good idea. Find your style that fits you, and then get a suite to fit the room. Look out for great deals, but don’t get so overwhelmed with them that you end up with a bath tub that won’t fit your room!

The key thing to remember is to measure the space once, then measure it again. It’s surprising how often people only do 1 measurement and when their bathroom arrives find out that it doesn’t fit. This can be a costly mistake so measure 2-3 times just to make sure.

One thing to look out for when buying online or offline, is a classic trick used by companies who offer free delivery, but bump up the prices of their products to reflect this, so again, shop around and work out your best deal, as it won’t always be the one’s offering free delivery or free extras. Ultimately your bathroom is a long term investment and will ultimately add significant value to your property, if done correctly!

How many of use have gone to look round a new property and been put off by an aubergine suite, and grotty tiles?!

Adding features to a bathroom is where you get your main style, a bath tub with traditional taps and embossed square looking bath panels will make the bath look traditional, where as smooth lines and funky taps will give a more modern look. So use these types of features to add your character, even colourful toilet seats can be used to personalise your suite if white isn’t your thing.

However, don’t get put off looking at endless rows of white items which all start to look the same. A good way to do this is by going to showrooms, and seeing how suites look in a bathroom environment, this can also help in working out what style you want for your bathroom. Not all of us have the time to go out and visit showrooms and a lot of websites offer good life style images showing how their bathrooms look.

Once you have chosen your bathroom suite and measured and measured again, its time to get your new bathroom into your home. Check out our plumbing forums for some helpful insight. The main thing is, whatever style you go for, make sure you enjoy your bathroom!

]]> http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/bathroom-design/feed/ 1 Boarded Solidfloors http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/boarded-solidfloors/ http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/boarded-solidfloors/#comments Wed, 30 Sep 2009 22:47:39 +0000 Jaimyn Chang http://www.publicdesigns.com/?p=477 Most floorcoverings, including woodblock flooring, can be bonded directly to a dry, smooth, screeded floor, but floorboards cannot be directly bonded and so must be fixed by other means.
The boards are nailed down to 50 x 50mm (2 x 2in) softwood battens, or bearers. These battens are embedded in the concrete while it is wet or are fixed to metal clips which are already implanted in the concrete. In either case the timber must be treated with a wood preserver. A damp- proof membrane (DPM) must be incorporated, usually in the form of a continuous coat of bituminous material sandwiched within the slab.
This means of fixing requires the slab to be level and relatively smooth. The flanges of the clips are pressed into the surface of the concrete before it sets, while a marked guide batten is used to space the clips and align them in rows. The rows are normally set 400mm (1ft 4in) apart to centres, starting 50mm
These are splayed in section so as to key into the concrete slab. Again, the slab is built up in two layers with the DPM sandwiched between them. Before the top layer or screed is laid, the treated battens are positioned at 400mm (1ft 4in) centres and levelled on dabs of concrete. Strips of wood are nailed across them temporarily to hold them in position. When the dabs of concrete are set and the battens firmly held, the wood strips are removed and the top layer of concrete is poured and compacted. It is levelled with a rule that is notched to fit over the battens. As the rule is drawn along the battens, it finishes the concrete 12mm (1/2in) below their top edges. When the concrete layer is fully dry the boards are nailed on the battens in the conventional way.
Flooring-grade chipboard is a relatively recent innovation as a material for boarding over a solid floor. It is quicker and cheaper to lay than a floor made of boards. Chipboard flooring is also more stable and it can be laid without being fixed to the concrete slab.
This technique produces a floor of the type known as a ‘floating floor’. The simplest floor of this kind is laid with 18mm (3/4in) tongue-and-groove chipboard, either the standard grade or the moisture-resistant type.
First a sheet of insulating material such as rigid polystyrene or fibreboard is laid on the concrete slab; then a vapour barrier of polyethylene sheet is laid above the polystyrene. The vapour barrier must be a continuous sheet, with its edges turned up and trapped behind the skirting boards. The chipboard, glued edge to edge, is then laid on the vapour barrier.
Battens can be incorporated in a floating floor. Lengths of 50 x 50mm (2 x 2in) softwood, treated with a preserver, are spaced at 400mm (lft 4in) intervals for 18mm (3/4in) chipboard; for heavy-gauge 22mm (7/8in) material they are spaced 600mm (2ft) apart. A quilt- type sheet of insulating material is laid on the concrete slab, then covered with a polyethylene vapour barrier. The battens are positioned on the insulation, held together temporarily with strips of wood nailed across them. Tongue-and groove chipboard is laid at right angles to the battens and glued at the edges before it is nailed down.
The chipboard flooring is held in place by its own weight and by the skirting boards, which are nailed to the walls round its edges. The skirting boards also cover a 9mm gap between the chipboard and the walls, allowing for expansion across the floor.
Most floorcoverings, including woodblock flooring, can be bonded directly to a dry, smooth, screeded floor, but floorboards cannot be directly bonded and so must be fixed by other means.
The boards are nailed down to 50 x 50mm (2 x 2in) softwood battens, or bearers. These battens are embedded in the concrete while it is wet or are fixed to metal clips which are already implanted in the concrete. In either case the timber must be treated with a wood preserver. A damp- proof membrane (DPM) must be incorporated, usually in the form of a continuous coat of bituminous material sandwiched within the slab.
This means of fixing requires the slab to be level and relatively smooth. The flanges of the clips are pressed into the surface of the concrete before it sets, while a marked guide batten is used to space the clips and align them in rows. The rows are normally set 400mm (1ft 4in) apart to centres, starting 50mm
These are splayed in section so as to key into the concrete slab. Again, the slab is built up in two layers with the DPM sandwiched between them. Before the top layer or screed is laid, the treated battens are positioned at 400mm (1ft 4in) centres and levelled on dabs of concrete. Strips of wood are nailed across them temporarily to hold them in position. When the dabs of concrete are set and the battens firmly held, the wood strips are removed and the top layer of concrete is poured and compacted. It is levelled with a rule that is notched to fit over the battens. As the rule is drawn along the battens, it finishes the concrete 12mm (1/2in) below their top edges. When the concrete layer is fully dry the boards are nailed on the battens in the conventional way.
Flooring-grade chipboard is a relatively recent innovation as a material for boarding over a solid floor. It is quicker and cheaper to lay than a floor made of boards. Chipboard flooring is also more stable and it can be laid without being fixed to the concrete slab.
This technique produces a floor of the type known as a ‘floating floor’. The simplest floor of this kind is laid with 18mm (3/4in) tongue-and-groove chipboard, either the standard grade or the moisture-resistant type.
First a sheet of insulating material such as rigid polystyrene or fibreboard is laid on the concrete slab; then a vapour barrier of polyethylene sheet is laid above the polystyrene. The vapour barrier must be a continuous sheet, with its edges turned up and trapped behind the skirting boards. The chipboard, glued edge to edge, is then laid on the vapour barrier.
Battens can be incorporated in a floating floor. Lengths of 50 x 50mm (2 x 2in) softwood, treated with a preserver, are spaced at 400mm (lft 4in) intervals for 18mm (3/4in) chipboard; for heavy-gauge 22mm (7/8in) material they are spaced 600mm (2ft) apart. A quilt- type sheet of insulating material is laid on the concrete slab, then covered with a polyethylene vapour barrier. The battens are positioned on the insulation, held together temporarily with strips of wood nailed across them. Tongue-and groove chipboard is laid at right angles to the battens and glued at the edges before it is nailed down.
The chipboard flooring is held in place by its own weight and by the skirting boards, which are nailed to the walls round its edges. The skirting boards also cover a 9mm gap between the chipboard and the walls, allowing for expansion across the floor.
]]> http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/boarded-solidfloors/feed/ 0 DIY: Laying Chipboard Flooring http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/diy-laying-chipboard-flooring/ http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/diy-laying-chipboard-flooring/#comments Thu, 24 Sep 2009 10:36:22 +0000 Jaimyn Chang http://www.publicdesigns.com/?p=470 For a floor that is going to be invisible beneath some kind of covering — vinyl, cork, fitted carpet or whatever — chipboard is an excellent material. It can be laid relatively quickly and is much cheaper than an equivalent amount of timber flooring. It comes square- edged or tongued and grooved. Each has its own laying technique.
All the edges of square-edged sheet flooring must be supported. Lay the boards with their long edges along the joists and nail 75 x 50mm (3 x 2in) softwood noggings between the joists to support the ends of the boards. The noggings against the wall can be inserted in advance; those supporting joints between boards must be nailed into place as the boards are laid.
Start with a full-length board in one corner and lay a row of boards the length of the room, cutting the last one to fit as required. Leave an expansion gap of about 9mm (Min) between the
Tongue-and-groove boards are laid with their long edges running across the joists. Noggings are required only to support the outer edges close to the walls. The ends of the boards are supported by joists.
Working from one corner, lay the first board with its grooved edges about 9mm (Min) from the walls and nail it in place. Apply PVA wood adhesive to the joint along the end of the first board, then lay the next one in the row. Knock it up to the first board with a hammer for a good close joint, protecting the edge with a piece of scrap wood. Nail outer edges of the boards and the walls. The boards’ inner edges should fall on the centre line of a joist. If necessary cut the boards to width, but remove the waste from the edges closest to the wall, preserving the machine-cut edges to make neat butt joints with the next row of boards. Nail down the boards, using 50mm (2in) ring-shank nails spaced about 300mm (1ft) apart along the joists and noggings. Place the nails about 18mm (3/4in) from the board edges.
Cut and lay the remainder of the boards with the end joints staggered on alternate rows.
Continue in this way across the floor, gluing all of the joints as you go. Cut boards to fit at the ends of rows or to fall on the centre of a joist, and stagger end joints on alternate rows.
Finally, fit the skirting boards, which will cover the expansion gaps around the perimeter of the floor.
If you wish to, you can seal the surface of the chipboard with two coats of clear polyurethane varnish to protect it from dirt.
For a floor that is going to be invisible beneath some kind of covering — vinyl, cork, fitted carpet or whatever — chipboard is an excellent material. It can be laid relatively quickly and is much cheaper than an equivalent amount of timber flooring. It comes square- edged or tongued and grooved. Each has its own laying technique.
All the edges of square-edged sheet flooring must be supported. Lay the boards with their long edges along the joists and nail 75 x 50mm (3 x 2in) softwood noggings between the joists to support the ends of the boards. The noggings against the wall can be inserted in advance; those supporting joints between boards must be nailed into place as the boards are laid.
Start with a full-length board in one corner and lay a row of boards the length of the room, cutting the last one to fit as required. Leave an expansion gap of about 9mm (Min) between them.
Tongue-and-groove boards are laid with their long edges running across the joists. Noggings are required only to support the outer edges close to the walls. The ends of the boards are supported by joists.
Working from one corner, lay the first board with its grooved edges about 9mm (Min) from the walls and nail it in place. Apply PVA wood adhesive to the joint along the end of the first board, then lay the next one in the row. Knock it up to the first board with a hammer for a good close joint, protecting the edge with a piece of scrap wood. Nail outer edges of the boards and the walls. The boards’ inner edges should fall on the centre line of a joist. If necessary cut the boards to width, but remove the waste from the edges closest to the wall, preserving the machine-cut edges to make neat butt joints with the next row of boards. Nail down the boards, using 50mm (2in) ring-shank nails spaced about 300mm (1ft) apart along the joists and noggings. Place the nails about 18mm (3/4in) from the board edges.
Cut and lay the remainder of the boards with the end joints staggered on alternate rows.
Continue in this way across the floor, gluing all of the joints as you go. Cut boards to fit at the ends of rows or to fall on the centre of a joist, and stagger end joints on alternate rows.
Finally, fit the skirting boards, which will cover the expansion gaps around the perimeter of the floor.
If you wish to, you can seal the surface of the chipboard with two coats of clear polyurethane varnish to protect it from dirt.
]]> http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/diy-laying-chipboard-flooring/feed/ 1 Home Improvement: Spiral Balances http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/home-improvement-spiral-balances/ http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/home-improvement-spiral-balances/#comments Sun, 20 Sep 2009 15:04:26 +0000 Jaimyn Chang http://www.publicdesigns.com/?p=467 Instead of counterweights and cords, modern sash windows use spiral balances which are mounted on the faces of the frame stiles, eliminating the need for traditional box frames. Pairs of balances are made to match the size and weight of individual glazed sashes and can be ordered through builders’ merchants or by post from the manufacturers.
Each balance consists of a torsion spring and a spiral rod housed in a tube. The top end is fixed to the frame stile and the inner spiral to the bottom of the sash. The complete unit can be housed in a groove in the sash stile or in the window frame.
You can fit spiral sash balances to replace the weights in a traditionally constructed sash window.
Remove the sashes and weigh them on your bathroom scales. Place your order, giving the weight of each sash together with its height and width, plus the height of the window frame. Refit the sashes temporarily until the balances arrive, then take them out again and remove the pulleys.
Plug the holes and paint the box- frame stiles. Cut grooves, as specified by the manufacturers, in the stiles of each sash to take the balances (1). Also cut a housing at each end of their bottom edges to receive the spiral-rod fixing plates. Fit the fixing plates with screws (2).
Sit the top sash in place, resting it on the sill, and fit the parting bead. Take the top pair of balances, which are shorter than those for the bottom sash, and locate each in its groove (3). Fix the top ends of the balance tubes to the frame stiles with the screw nails provided (4) and set the ends tight against the head.
Lift the sash to its full height and prop it with a length of wood. Hook the wire ‘key’ provided by the makers into the hole in the end of each spiral rod and pull each one down about 150mm (6in). Keeping the tension on the spring, add three to five turns anti-clockwise (5). Locate the end of each rod in its fixing plate and test the balance of the sash. If it drops, add another turn on the springs until it is perfectly balanced. Take care not to overwind the balances.
Fit the bottom sash in the same way, refitting the staff bead to hold it in place. Fit the stops that limit the full travel of the sashes in their respective tracks.
In time the springs of spiral balances may weaken. Re-tension them by unhooking the spiral rods from their fixing plates, then turn the rods anticlockwise once or twice.
The mechanisms can be serviced by releasing the tension and unwinding the rods from the tubes. Wipe them clean and apply a little thin oil, then rewind the rods back into the tubes and tension them.
Instead of counterweights and cords, modern sash windows use spiral balances which are mounted on the faces of the frame stiles, eliminating the need for traditional box frames. Pairs of balances are made to match the size and weight of individual glazed sashes and can be ordered through builders’ merchants or by post from the manufacturers.
Each balance consists of a torsion spring and a spiral rod housed in a tube. The top end is fixed to the frame stile and the inner spiral to the bottom of the sash. The complete unit can be housed in a groove in the sash stile or in the window frame.
You can fit spiral sash balances to replace the weights in a traditionally constructed sash window.
Remove the sashes and weigh them on your bathroom scales. Place your order, giving the weight of each sash together with its height and width, plus the height of the window frame. Refit the sashes temporarily until the balances arrive, then take them out again and remove the pulleys.
Plug the holes and paint the box- frame stiles. Cut grooves, as specified by the manufacturers, in the stiles of each sash to take the balances (1). Also cut a housing at each end of their bottom edges to receive the spiral-rod fixing plates. Fit the fixing plates with screws (2).
Sit the top sash in place, resting it on the sill, and fit the parting bead. Take the top pair of balances, which are shorter than those for the bottom sash, and locate each in its groove (3). Fix the top ends of the balance tubes to the frame stiles with the screw nails provided (4) and set the ends tight against the head.
Lift the sash to its full height and prop it with a length of wood. Hook the wire ‘key’ provided by the makers into the hole in the end of each spiral rod and pull each one down about 150mm (6in). Keeping the tension on the spring, add three to five turns anti-clockwise (5). Locate the end of each rod in its fixing plate and test the balance of the sash. If it drops, add another turn on the springs until it is perfectly balanced. Take care not to overwind the balances.
Fit the bottom sash in the same way, refitting the staff bead to hold it in place. Fit the stops that limit the full travel of the sashes in their respective tracks.
In time the springs of spiral balances may weaken. Re-tension them by unhooking the spiral rods from their fixing plates, then turn the rods anticlockwise once or twice.
The mechanisms can be serviced by releasing the tension and unwinding the rods from the tubes. Wipe them clean and apply a little thin oil, then rewind the rods back into the tubes and tension them.
]]> http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/home-improvement-spiral-balances/feed/ 1 How to Re-cord a Sash Window http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/how-to-re-cord-a-sash-window/ http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/how-to-re-cord-a-sash-window/#comments Sun, 06 Sep 2009 20:02:13 +0000 Jaimyn Chang http://www.publicdesigns.com/?p=461 In time, the sash cords from which the sashes are suspended will wear and eventually break. Replace both cords even if only one has broken.
Waxed sash cording is normally sold in standard hanks, although some suppliers sell it by the metre. Each sash requires two lengths of cord, measuring about three-quarters the height of the window. Do not cut it to length beforehand.
Lower both sashes and cut through the cords with a knife to release the weights. Hold on to the cords and lower the weights as far as possible before allowing them to drop.
Use a wide-bladed paint scraper to prise off the side staff beads from inside the frame, bending them in the middle until their mitred ends spring out.
Lean the inner sash towards you and mark the ends of the cord grooves on the face of the sash stiles (1).
Reposition the sash and carry the marks on to the pulley stiles. The sash can now be pulled clear of the frame.
Carefully prise out the two parting beads from their grooves in the stiles. You can then remove the top sash, after marking the ends of the grooves as before. Place the sashes safely aside.
To gain access to the weights, take out the pocket pieces which were trapped by the parting bead and lift the weights out through the openings.
Pieces of thin wood known as parting strips are usually suspended inside the box stiles to separate each pair of weights. Push the strips aside to reach the outer weights.
Remove the old sash cords from the weights and sashes, and clean up the wood ready for the new cords.
The top sash is fitted first, but not before all the sash cords and weights are in place. Clean away any build-up of paint from the pulleys. Tie a length of fine string to one end of the hank of sash cording. Weight the other end of the string with small nuts or a piece of chain. Thread the weight, known as a mouse, over a pulley (2) and pull the string through the pocket opening until the cord is pulled through. Attach the end of the cord to the weight with a special knot.
Pull on the cord to hoist the weight up to the pulley, then let it drop back about 100mm (4in). Hold it temporarily in this position with a nail just below the pulley. Cut the cord level with the mark on the pulley stile (3). Repeat this procedure for the cord on the other side, and similarly for the bottom sash.
Replace the top sash on the sill, lean it towards you and locate its cords in the grooves in the stiles. Nail the cords in place, using three or four 25mm (1 in) round wire nails. Nail only the bottom 150mm (6in), not all the way up (4). Lift the sash to check that the weights do not touch bottom.
Replace the pocket pieces and pin the parting beads in their grooves. Fit the bottom sash in the same way. Finally replace the staff beads, taking care to position them accurately or you may trap the bottom sash.
In time, the sash cords from which the sashes are suspended will wear and eventually break. Replace both cords even if only one has broken.
Waxed sash cording is normally sold in standard hanks, although some suppliers sell it by the metre. Each sash requires two lengths of cord, measuring about three-quarters the height of the window. Do not cut it to length beforehand.
Lower both sashes and cut through the cords with a knife to release the weights. Hold on to the cords and lower the weights as far as possible before allowing them to drop.
Use a wide-bladed paint scraper to prise off the side staff beads from inside the frame, bending them in the middle until their mitred ends spring out.
Lean the inner sash towards you and mark the ends of the cord grooves on the face of the sash stiles (1).
Reposition the sash and carry the marks on to the pulley stiles. The sash can now be pulled clear of the frame.
Carefully prise out the two parting beads from their grooves in the stiles. You can then remove the top sash, after marking the ends of the grooves as before. Place the sashes safely aside.
To gain access to the weights, take out the pocket pieces which were trapped by the parting bead and lift the weights out through the openings.
Pieces of thin wood known as parting strips are usually suspended inside the box stiles to separate each pair of weights. Push the strips aside to reach the outer weights.
Remove the old sash cords from the weights and sashes, and clean up the wood ready for the new cords.
The top sash is fitted first, but not before all the sash cords and weights are in place. Clean away any build-up of paint from the pulleys. Tie a length of fine string to one end of the hank of sash cording. Weight the other end of the string with small nuts or a piece of chain. Thread the weight, known as a mouse, over a pulley (2) and pull the string through the pocket opening until the cord is pulled through. Attach the end of the cord to the weight with a special knot.
Pull on the cord to hoist the weight up to the pulley, then let it drop back about 100mm (4in). Hold it temporarily in this position with a nail just below the pulley. Cut the cord level with the mark on the pulley stile (3). Repeat this procedure for the cord on the other side, and similarly for the bottom sash.
Replace the top sash on the sill, lean it towards you and locate its cords in the grooves in the stiles. Nail the cords in place, using three or four 25mm (1 in) round wire nails. Nail only the bottom 150mm (6in), not all the way up (4). Lift the sash to check that the weights do not touch bottom.
Replace the pocket pieces and pin the parting beads in their grooves. Fit the bottom sash in the same way. Finally replace the staff beads, taking care to position them accurately or you may trap the bottom sash.
]]> http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/how-to-re-cord-a-sash-window/feed/ 0 How to Repair a Rotten Window Sill http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/how-to-repair-a-rotten-window-sill/ http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/how-to-repair-a-rotten-window-sill/#comments Sun, 06 Sep 2009 20:00:08 +0000 Jaimyn Chang http://www.publicdesigns.com/?p=459

The sill iskdjdj a fundamental part of a window frame, and if one is afflicted by rot it can mean major repair work.

A casement-window frame is constructed in the same way as a doorframe and can be repaired in a similar way. All the glass should be removed first. The window board may also have to be removed, then refitted level with the replacement sill.
Make sure that the damp-proofing of the joint between the underside of the sill and the wall is maintained. Modern gun-applied mastics have made this particular problem easier to overcome. Some traditional frames have a galvanized-iron water bar between the sill and sub-sill. When replacing a sill of this type without removing the whole frame you may have to discard the bar and rely on mastic sealants to keep the water out.
Do not simply replace a sill by cutting through it and fitting a new section between the jambs. Even if you seal the joints with mastic, any breakdown of the sealant will allow water to penetrate the brickwork and end grain of the wood, and you may find yourself doing the job all over again.
Serious rot in the sill of a sash window may require the whole frame to be taken out. Make and fit a new sill, using the old one as a pattern. Treat the new wood with a preserver and take the opportunity to treat the old wood which is normally hidden.
The traditional stone sills that feature in older houses may become eroded by the weather if they are not protected with paint. They are also liable to crack if the wall subsides.
Repair cracks and eroded surfaces with a ready-mixed quick-setting waterproof mortar. Rake out the cracks to clean and enlarge them. Dampen the stone with clean water and work the mortar well into the cracks, finishing flush with the top surface.
Undercut any depressions caused by erosion to help the mortar adhere — a thin layer of mortar simply applied to a shallow depression in the surface will not last for long. Use a cold chisel to cut away the surface of the sill at least 25mm (1 in) below the finished level and remove all traces of dust.
CASTING A NEW SUB-SILL
Cut out what remains of the old stone sill with a hammer and cold chisel.
Make a wooden mould with its end  pieces shaped to the same section as the old sill. The open top of the mould represents the underside of the sill.
Fill two-thirds of the mould with fine- aggregate concrete, tamped down well. Add two lengths of mild-steel reinforcing rod, judiciously spaced to share the volume of the sill, then fill the remainder of the mould. Set a narrow brickwork. Apply a bead of mastic sealant to the sill, then replace the complete frame in the opening from inside. Make good the damaged plaster.
It is possible to replace the sill from the inside with the frame in place. Saw through the sill close to the jambs and remove the centre portion. Cut away the bottom ends of the inner lining level with the pulley stiles and remove the ends of the old sill. Cut the ends of the new sill to fit round the outer lining, and under the stiles and inner lining. Fit the sill and nail or screw the stiles to it.
Make a wooden former to the shape of the sill and temporarily nail it to the brickwork. Dampen the stone, trowel in the mortar and tamp it level with the former, then smooth it out. Leave the mortar to set for a couple of days before removing the former. Allow it to dry thoroughly before applying paint.
piece of wood such as a dowel into notches cut in the ends of the mould. This is to form a ‘throat’ or drip groove in the underside of the sill.
Cover the concrete with polyethylene sheeting or dampen it regularly for two to three days to prevent rapid drying. When the concrete has set (allow about seven days), remove it from the mould and lay the new sill in the wall on a bed of mortar, packed from underneath with slate to meet the wooden sill.
Damaged wood window shutters can be replaced with newer ones that have better quality.
The sill is a fundamental part of a window frame, and if one is afflicted by rot it can mean major repair work.
A casement-window frame is constructed in the same way as a doorframe and can be repaired in a similar way. All the glass should be removed first. The window board may also have to be removed, then refitted level with the replacement sill.
Make sure that the damp-proofing of the joint between the underside of the sill and the wall is maintained. Modern gun-applied mastics have made this particular problem easier to overcome. Some traditional frames have a galvanized-iron water bar between the sill and sub-sill. When replacing a sill of this type without removing the whole frame you may have to discard the bar and rely on mastic sealants to keep the water out.
Do not simply replace a sill by cutting through it and fitting a new section between the jambs. Even if you seal the joints with mastic, any breakdown of the sealant will allow water to penetrate the brickwork and end grain of the wood, and you may find yourself doing the job all over again.
Serious rot in the sill of a sash window may require the whole frame to be taken out. Make and fit a new sill, using the old one as a pattern. Treat the new wood with a preserver and take the opportunity to treat the old wood which is normally hidden.
The traditional stone sills that feature in older houses may become eroded by the weather if they are not protected with paint. They are also liable to crack if the wall subsides.
Repair cracks and eroded surfaces with a ready-mixed quick-setting waterproof mortar. Rake out the cracks to clean and enlarge them. Dampen the stone with clean water and work the mortar well into the cracks, finishing flush with the top surface.
Undercut any depressions caused by erosion to help the mortar adhere — a thin layer of mortar simply applied to a shallow depression in the surface will not last for long. Use a cold chisel to cut away the surface of the sill at least 25mm (1 in) below the finished level and remove all traces of dust.
CASTING A NEW SUB-SILL
Cut out what remains of the old stone sill with a hammer and cold chisel.
Make a wooden mould with its end  pieces shaped to the same section as the old sill. The open top of the mould represents the underside of the sill.
Fill two-thirds of the mould with fine- aggregate concrete, tamped down well. Add two lengths of mild-steel reinforcing rod, judiciously spaced to share the volume of the sill, then fill the remainder of the mould. Set a narrow brickwork. Apply a bead of mastic sealant to the sill, then replace the complete frame in the opening from inside. Make good the damaged plaster.
It is possible to replace the sill from the inside with the frame in place. Saw through the sill close to the jambs and remove the centre portion. Cut away the bottom ends of the inner lining level with the pulley stiles and remove the ends of the old sill. Cut the ends of the new sill to fit round the outer lining, and under the stiles and inner lining. Fit the sill and nail or screw the stiles to it.
Make a wooden former to the shape of the sill and temporarily nail it to the brickwork. Dampen the stone, trowel in the mortar and tamp it level with the former, then smooth it out. Leave the mortar to set for a couple of days before removing the former. Allow it to dry thoroughly before applying paint.
Use a piece of wood such as a dowel, into notches cut in the ends, of the mould. This is to form a ‘throat’ or drip groove in the underside of the sill.
Cover the concrete with polyethylene sheeting or dampen it regularly for two to three days to prevent rapid drying. When the concrete has set (allow about seven days), remove it from the mould and lay the new sill in the wall on a bed of mortar, packed from underneath with slate to meet the wooden sill.
]]> http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/how-to-repair-a-rotten-window-sill/feed/ 2 How to Repair Rotten Window Frames http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/how-to-repair-rotten-window-frames/ http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/how-to-repair-rotten-window-frames/#comments Sun, 06 Sep 2009 19:58:02 +0000 Jaimyn Chang http://www.publicdesigns.com/?p=457 Inevitably, old wooden casements and sash windows will have deteriorated to some extent, but regular maintenance and prompt repairs will preserve them almost indefinitely. New frames, or frames which have been stripped, should always be treated with a clear wood preserver before they are painted.
Regular maintenance
The bottom rail of a softwood sash is most vulnerable to rot, particularly if it is left unprotected. Rainwater seeps in behind old shrunken putty and moisture is gradually absorbed through cracked or flaking paintwork. Carry out an annual check and deal with any faults. Cut out old putty that has shrunk away from the glass and replace it. Remove flaking paint, make good any cracks in the wood with flexible filler and repaint. Do not forget to paint the underside of the sash.
Where rot is well advanced and the rail is beyond repair it should be cut out and replaced. This should be done before the rot spreads to the stiles, otherwise you will eventually have to replace the whole sash frame.
Remove the sash by unscrewing the hinges or, if it is a double-hung sash window, by removing the beading.
With a little care the repair can be carried out without removing the glass, though if the window is large it is safer to do so. In any event, cut away the putty from the damaged rail.
The bottom rail is tenoned into the stiles (1), but it can be replaced, using bridle joints. Saw down the shoulder lines of the tenon joints (2) from both faces of the frame and remove the rail.
Make a new rail, or buy a length of moulding if it is a standard section, then mark and cut it to length with a full- width tenon at each end. Set the positions of the tenons to line up with the mortises of the stiles. Cut the shoulders to match the rebated sections of the stiles (3) or, if there is a decorative moulding, pare the moulding from the stile to leave a flat shoulder (4). Cut slots in the ends of the stiles to receive the tenons.
Glue the new rail securely into place with a waterproof resin adhesive and reinforce the two joints with pairs of 6mm (1/4in) stopped dowels. Drill the stopped holes from the inside of the frame and stagger them.
When the adhesive is dry, plane the surface as required and treat the new wood with a clear preserver. Reputty the glass and apply paint as soon as the putty is firm.
REPLACING A FIXED-LIGHT RAIL
The frames of some fixed lights (windows) are made like sashes, but are screwed permanently to the jamb and mullion. Such a frame can be repaired in the same way as a sash  after its glass is removed and it is unscrewed from the window frame. Where this proves too difficult you will have to carry out the repair in situ.
First remove the putty and the glass, then saw through the rail at each end, close to the stile. Use a chisel to pare away what remains of the rail and chop out the tenons from the stiles. Cut a new length of rail to fit between the stiles and cut housings in its top edge at both ends to take loose tenons (1). Place the housings so that they line up with the mortises and make each housing twice as long as the depth of the mortise.
Cut two loose tenons to fit the housings and two packing pieces. The latter should have one sloping edge (2).
Apply an exterior woodworking adhesive to all of the jointing surfaces, place the rail between the frame members, insert the loose tenons and push them sideways into the mortises. Drive the packing pieces behind the tenons to lock them in place. When the adhesive has set, trim the top edges, treat the new wood with clear
preserver, replace the glass and reputty. Repaint once the putty is firm.
Inevitably, old wooden casements and sash windows will have deteriorated to some extent, but regular maintenance and prompt repairs will preserve them almost indefinitely. New frames, or frames which have been stripped, should always be treated with a clear wood preserver before they are painted.
Regular maintenance
The bottom rail of a softwood sash is most vulnerable to rot, particularly if it is left unprotected. Rainwater seeps in behind old shrunken putty and moisture is gradually absorbed through cracked or flaking paintwork. Carry out an annual check and deal with any faults. Cut out old putty that has shrunk away from the glass and replace it. Remove flaking paint, make good any cracks in the wood with flexible filler and repaint. Do not forget to paint the underside of the sash.
Where rot is well advanced and the rail is beyond repair it should be cut out and replaced. This should be done before the rot spreads to the stiles, otherwise you will eventually have to replace the whole sash frame.
Remove the sash by unscrewing the hinges or, if it is a double-hung sash window, by removing the beading.
With a little care the repair can be carried out without removing the glass, though if the window is large it is safer to do so. In any event, cut away the putty from the damaged rail.
The bottom rail is tenoned into the stiles (1), but it can be replaced, using bridle joints. Saw down the shoulder lines of the tenon joints (2) from both faces of the frame and remove the rail.
Make a new rail, or buy a length of moulding if it is a standard section, then mark and cut it to length with a full- width tenon at each end. Set the positions of the tenons to line up with the mortises of the stiles. Cut the shoulders to match the rebated sections of the stiles (3) or, if there is a decorative moulding, pare the moulding from the stile to leave a flat shoulder (4). Cut slots in the ends of the stiles to receive the tenons.
Glue the new rail securely into place with a waterproof resin adhesive and reinforce the two joints with pairs of 6mm (1/4in) stopped dowels. Drill the stopped holes from the inside of the frame and stagger them.
When the adhesive is dry, plane the surface as required and treat the new wood with a clear preserver. Reputty the glass and apply paint as soon as the putty is firm.
REPLACING A FIXED-LIGHT RAIL
The frames of some fixed lights (windows) are made like sashes, but are screwed permanently to the jamb and mullion. Such a frame can be repaired in the same way as a sash  after its glass is removed and it is unscrewed from the window frame. Where this proves too difficult you will have to carry out the repair in situ.
First remove the putty and the glass, then saw through the rail at each end, close to the stile. Use a chisel to pare away what remains of the rail and chop out the tenons from the stiles. Cut a new length of rail to fit between the stiles and cut housings in its top edge at both ends to take loose tenons (1). Place the housings so that they line up with the mortises and make each housing twice as long as the depth of the mortise.
Cut two loose tenons to fit the housings and two packing pieces. The latter should have one sloping edge (2).
Apply an exterior woodworking adhesive to all of the jointing surfaces, place the rail between the frame members, insert the loose tenons and push them sideways into the mortises. Drive the packing pieces behind the tenons to lock them in place. When the adhesive has set, trim the top edges, treat the new wood with clear preserver, replace the glass and reputty. Repaint once the putty is firm.
]]> http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/how-to-repair-rotten-window-frames/feed/ 2 Kitchen Backsplash Tips http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/kitchen-backsplash-tips/ http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/kitchen-backsplash-tips/#comments Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:44:04 +0000 admin http://www.publicdesigns.com/?p=447 One area of a kitchen that’s sometimes a trouble spot is the area over the counter top. One way to solve several problems is to install a kitchen tile backsplash. Now a tile backsplash is practical for sure. But it’s an area to let the creative juices flow too.

When installing a kitchen backsplash, a trouble spot for many users is the proximity right over the top of the counter. The best way to tackle this problem is to add a unique finishing touch to your kitchen backsplash. When installing the kitchen backsplash I suggest using some unique accent tiles. I might even sugggest that you hand paint a few tiles for the backsplash.
Pretty much go crazy. It is all up to your own creativity.

Kitchen Backsplash

Kitchen Backsplash

The area above the counter top is a perfect place to make the kitchen backsplash special and stand out. And since tiles are easy to clean and maintain there is no reason not to install a kitchen backsplash.

Another trouble spot is areas where you have to cut the tile into special shapes. This is most obvious when working around a plug or wall outlet. Though this task may seem formidable, it isn’t. I suggest taking a pen and making a light mark on your tile so you know where to cut the tile. Do this on the back of your backsplash tile so it does not show later on.

Tile is easy to maintain and that’s one of the best reasons for a tile back splash. Just wipe it off and it’s clean and looking like new.

Most of all, just be creative. A kitchen backsplash is a simple and great way to not only make your kitchen look great, but to increase the value of your home.

So what are you waiting for? Start installing that kitchen backsplash.

]]> http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/kitchen-backsplash-tips/feed/ 0 Roof Windows http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/roof-windows/ http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/roof-windows/#comments Sat, 15 Aug 2009 04:17:57 +0000 Jaimyn Chang http://www.publicdesigns.com/?p=442 Double-glazed roof windows are becoming increasingly popular for the modernizing of old attic skylights and as part of a loft conversion. They are supplied ready-glazed and fully equipped with catches and ventilators. Flashing kits to fit the frame and to suit high-profile or low-profile roofing material are also available.
Centre-pivoting sashes can be used for roofs with pitches between 15 and 90 degrees. Top-hung windows are available for pitched roofs between 15 and 75 degrees. A combined top-hung and central-pivot variant is also available to provide a large opening that can be used as an emergency exit.
Roof windows are relatively easy to fit, using ordinary woodworking tools. They can usually be installed from inside the roof space and the glass can be cleaned conveniently from inside. Accessories such as remote-opening devices and blinds are also available.
Cost is always a consideration when choosing roof windows, but take into consideration also the total area of glass that will be necessary to provide a suitable level of daylight in the room.The manufacturers of roof windows offer a standard range of sizes.
The height of the window is also quite important and is largely determined by the pitch of the roof. Manufacturers produce charts which give the recommended dimensions according to roof pitch. Ideally, if the window is to provide a reasonable outlook, the bottom rail should not obstruct the view from normal seat height, nor should it cut across the line of sight of someone standing. Broadly speaking, this means that the shallower the pitch of the roof, the taller the window needs to be. However, the top of the window should always remain
Start by stripping off the roof covering material over the area which is to be occupied by the window. The final placing of the frame will be determined by the position of the rafters and the roofing. Start by setting the bottom of the window frame at the specified distance above the nearest full course of slates and try to position it so as to have half or whole slates on each side.
Cut through the slating battens, roofing felt and rafters to make the opening, following the dimensions that are given by the manufacturer. Cut and nail horizontal trimmers between the rafters to set the height of the opening, and a vertical trimmer or trimmers to set the width..
Standard-size windows can be set side-by-side or placed one above the other to create a larger window; the widest single window available measures 1.34m (4ft 41/4in). When deciding on the size of a window, bear in mind its proportions and position in relation to the building’s appearance.
You probably will not need planning permission to install this type of window, but check if you live in a listed building or in a conservation area. However, the structural alterations will require Building Regulations approval, and so will a complete loft conversion.
The manufacturers of roof windows supply fixing instructions to suit installation in all situations. Below is a summary of one type of window fitted in a slate-covered roof. The frame for a tiled roof has a different flashing kit.
screw the window frame in place with the brackets provided. A guideline is clearly marked round the frame, and you must set this level with the surface of the roofing battens. Check that the frame is square by measuring across its diagonals to be sure they are equal.
Complete the outside work by fitting the slates and flashing kit, working up from the bottom of the frame. Replace the glazed sash.
Cut and nail plasterboard to the sides of the rafters on the inside and close the top and bottom of the opening with plasterboard nailed in the groove provided in the frame and to the timbers of the roof structure.
Finish off the joints with filler and tape, ready for decoration.
Double-glazed roof windows are becoming increasingly popular for the modernizing of old attic skylights and as part of a loft conversion. They are supplied ready-glazed and fully equipped with catches and ventilators. Flashing kits to fit the frame and to suit high-profile or low-profile roofing material are also available.
Centre-pivoting sashes can be used for roofs with pitches between 15 and 90 degrees. Top-hung windows are available for pitched roofs between 15 and 75 degrees. A combined top-hung and central-pivot variant is also available to provide a large opening that can be used as an emergency exit.
Roof windows are relatively easy to fit, using ordinary woodworking tools. They can usually be installed from inside the roof space and the glass can be cleaned conveniently from inside. Accessories such as remote-opening devices and blinds are also available.
Cost is always a consideration when choosing roof windows, but take into consideration also the total area of glass that will be necessary to provide a suitable level of daylight in the room.The manufacturers of roof windows offer a standard range of sizes.
The height of the window is also quite important and is largely determined by the pitch of the roof. Manufacturers produce charts which give the recommended dimensions according to roof pitch. Ideally, if the window is to provide a reasonable outlook, the bottom rail should not obstruct the view from normal seat height, nor should it cut across the line of sight of someone standing. Broadly speaking, this means that the shallower the pitch of the roof, the taller the window needs to be. However, the top of the window should always remain
Start by stripping off the roof covering material over the area which is to be occupied by the window. The final placing of the frame will be determined by the position of the rafters and the roofing. Start by setting the bottom of the window frame at the specified distance above the nearest full course of slates and try to position it so as to have half or whole slates on each side.
Cut through the slating battens, roofing felt and rafters to make the opening, following the dimensions that are given by the manufacturer. Cut and nail horizontal trimmers between the rafters to set the height of the opening, and a vertical trimmer or trimmers to set the width..
Standard-size windows can be set side-by-side or placed one above the other to create a larger window; the widest single window available measures 1.34m (4ft 41/4in). When deciding on the size of a window, bear in mind its proportions and position in relation to the building’s appearance.
You probably will not need planning permission to install this type of window, but check if you live in a listed building or in a conservation area. However, the structural alterations will require Building Regulations approval, and so will a complete loft conversion.
The manufacturers of roof windows supply fixing instructions to suit installation in all situations. Below is a summary of one type of window fitted in a slate-covered roof. The frame for a tiled roof has a different flashing kit.
screw the window frame in place with the brackets provided. A guideline is clearly marked round the frame, and you must set this level with the surface of the roofing battens. Check that the frame is square by measuring across its diagonals to be sure they are equal.
Complete the outside work by fitting the slates and flashing kit, working up from the bottom of the frame. Replace the glazed sash.
Cut and nail plasterboard to the sides of the rafters on the inside and close the top and bottom of the opening with plasterboard nailed in the groove provided in the frame and to the timbers of the roof structure.
Finish off the joints with filler and tape, ready for decoration.
]]> http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/roof-windows/feed/ 1 Replacement Windows http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/replacement-windows/ http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/replacement-windows/#comments Sat, 15 Aug 2009 04:15:13 +0000 Jaimyn Chang http://www.publicdesigns.com/?p=439 A bay window is a combination of window frames built out from the face of the building. The side frames may be set at 90- or 45-degree angles to the front of the house. Curved bays are also made with equal-sized frames set at a very slight angle to each other to form a faceted curve.
The brick structure that supports the window frames may continue up through all storeys, finishing with a gable roof. Alternatively, the bay might have a brick base only, or be supported on brackets, with a flat or pitched roof.
Bay windows can break away from the main wall as a result of subsidence caused by poor foundations or differential ground movements. Damage from slight movement can be repaired once it has stabilized by repointing the brickwork and applying mastic sealant to gaps round the woodwork. However, any damage from extensive or persistent movement should be dealt with by a builder. Consult your local Building Control Officer and inform your insurance company.
Where the height of the original window permits, fit standard window frames to make up a replacement window. Various combinations of frames can be joined with shaped hardwood corner posts to set the side frames at an angle of 90 or 45 degrees. A sealant is used to weatherproof the joints between the posts and frames.
These windows are constructed on a shallow curve and normally project from a flat wall. Complete hardwood bow-window frames are available from joinery suppliers, ready for installation in a brickwork opening. A flat-topped canopy of moulded plastic is made for finishing the top of the window in place of a traditional lead-sheet covering.
Tack damp-proof-course material to the sides of the frame and the underside of the sill, then fit both the frame and the canopy into the wall opening, the outer edges of the frame set flush with the wall. Screw the frame to the brickwork. The vertical damp proofing should overlap any damp-proof course built into the wall.
Weatherproof the canopy with a lead flashing cut into the wall and dressed over the upturned rear edge of the canopy. Use mastic to seal the joints between the frame and the brickwork.
Traditional boxed-sash windows fitted with cords and counterweights can be home-made or supplied by specialists who can also fit them for you.
Alternatively, an old vertically sliding sash window can be replaced with a new frame with spiral-balance sashes.
Remove the sashes, then take out- the old frame from inside the room. Prise off the architrave, then the window boards, and chop away the plaster as necessary. Most frames are wedged in their openings, and you can loosen one by simply hitting the sill on the outside with a heavy hammer and a wood block. Lift out the frame (1) and remove any debris from the opening.
Fit a traditional sash-window frame
Standard frames joined with posts exactly like the original, making sure the wood is treated with preserver.
Set a new spring-balance type (which has a thinner frame) centrally in the window opening. Check the frame for plumb and wedge the corners at the head and sill. Make up the space left by the old box stiles with mortared brickwork (2).
Metal brackets screwed to the new frame’s jambs can also be set in the mortar joints to secure the frame.
When the mortar has set, replaster the interior wall and replace the architrave. Glaze the sashes and apply a mastic sealant to the joints between the exterior brickwork and the frame to keep rainwater out.
Decorative but functional blinds are essential window treatments for setting the color scheme and décor of a room.
A bay window is a combination of window frames built out from the face of the building. The side frames may be set at 90- or 45-degree angles to the front of the house. Curved bays are also made with equal-sized frames set at a very slight angle to each other to form a faceted curve.
The brick structure that supports the window frames may continue up through all storeys, finishing with a gable roof. Alternatively, the bay might have a brick base only, or be supported on brackets, with a flat or pitched roof.
Bay windows can break away from the main wall as a result of subsidence caused by poor foundations or differential ground movements. Damage from slight movement can be repaired once it has stabilized by repointing the brickwork and applying mastic sealant to gaps round the woodwork. However, any damage from extensive or persistent movement should be dealt with by a builder. Consult your local Building Control Officer and inform your insurance company.
Where the height of the original window permits, fit standard window frames to make up a replacement window. Various combinations of frames can be joined with shaped hardwood corner posts to set the side frames at an angle of 90 or 45 degrees. A sealant is used to weatherproof the joints between the posts and frames.
These windows are constructed on a shallow curve and normally project from a flat wall. Complete hardwood bow-window frames are available from joinery suppliers, ready for installation in a brickwork opening. A flat-topped canopy of moulded plastic is made for finishing the top of the window in place of a traditional lead-sheet covering.
Tack damp-proof-course material to the sides of the frame and the underside of the sill, then fit both the frame and the canopy into the wall opening, the outer edges of the frame set flush with the wall. Screw the frame to the brickwork. The vertical damp proofing should overlap any damp-proof course built into the wall.
Weatherproof the canopy with a lead flashing cut into the wall and dressed over the upturned rear edge of the canopy. Use mastic to seal the joints between the frame and the brickwork.
Traditional boxed-sash windows fitted with cords and counterweights can be home-made or supplied by specialists who can also fit them for you.
Alternatively, an old vertically sliding sash window can be replaced with a new frame with spiral-balance sashes.
Remove the sashes, then take out- the old frame from inside the room. Prise off the architrave, then the window boards, and chop away the plaster as necessary. Most frames are wedged in their openings, and you can loosen one by simply hitting the sill on the outside with a heavy hammer and a wood block. Lift out the frame (1) and remove any debris from the opening.
Fit a traditional sash-window frame
Standard frames joined with posts exactly like the original, making sure the wood is treated with preserver.
Set a new spring-balance type (which has a thinner frame) centrally in the window opening. Check the frame for plumb and wedge the corners at the head and sill. Make up the space left by the old box stiles with mortared brickwork (2).
Metal brackets screwed to the new frame’s jambs can also be set in the mortar joints to secure the frame.
When the mortar has set, replaster the interior wall and replace the architrave. Glaze the sashes and apply a mastic sealant to the joints between the exterior brickwork and the frame to keep rainwater out.
]]> http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/replacement-windows/feed/ 0